Monday, March 27, 2006
Mount Buffalo 26th Mar 2006
Well it was about 2 months since we went up to Buffalo, the weather is really nice right now so it was a great day for it. Also we had the brand new guide to help us (the new guide is absolutely fantastic).
Started out at the Mothballs which is a small area just north of the Horn. First I led The Biggest Thing Here (16) which was delightful. The first move is a bit committing, you basically wedge your torso in a corner and use your legs to inch your way up and over a bulge. After that it's slabbing of the best sort, with plenty of bolts (I even missed one because they're unusually close together by Buffalo standards!!). After Andrew seconded it, we toproped Waiting For A Princess (20). This climb is really really good, it only gets one star but if it was in a better position (i.e. more exposure) it would certainly get two. The climbing is top-notch with edges for your feet that seem small but are in fact really nice. The first half is 18 and then the second half is sustained 20. Andrew managed to onsight it and I only fell off once when I placed a foot wrong after the crux. Did I mention you have almost nothing for your hands ?? (i.e. fingertips only).
Anyway, after lunch we decided to head to Tatra Rocks, this was disappointing, although we probably should have looked around to see what the starred climbs were like.
We finished up with Thin Wall Special Pineapple Delight (17) on the south side of the gorge which we toproped. I found it pretty difficult and very painful.
Hoping to head out again soon!!!
Started out at the Mothballs which is a small area just north of the Horn. First I led The Biggest Thing Here (16) which was delightful. The first move is a bit committing, you basically wedge your torso in a corner and use your legs to inch your way up and over a bulge. After that it's slabbing of the best sort, with plenty of bolts (I even missed one because they're unusually close together by Buffalo standards!!). After Andrew seconded it, we toproped Waiting For A Princess (20). This climb is really really good, it only gets one star but if it was in a better position (i.e. more exposure) it would certainly get two. The climbing is top-notch with edges for your feet that seem small but are in fact really nice. The first half is 18 and then the second half is sustained 20. Andrew managed to onsight it and I only fell off once when I placed a foot wrong after the crux. Did I mention you have almost nothing for your hands ?? (i.e. fingertips only).
Anyway, after lunch we decided to head to Tatra Rocks, this was disappointing, although we probably should have looked around to see what the starred climbs were like.
We finished up with Thin Wall Special Pineapple Delight (17) on the south side of the gorge which we toproped. I found it pretty difficult and very painful.
Hoping to head out again soon!!!
# posted by Stephen Gordon @ 11:25 PM 
