Sunday, July 09, 2006
Mt Pilot, 8 July 2006
Yesterday I went out to Mount Pilot with Ciaomhin from South Africa... he's working on the Charles Sturt University building project and is a fairly keen climber. I ran into him at Arapiles - they were the party behind us on Eskimo Nell. We got there at about 11.15 and first up we went to Mount Pilot Unearthed (17) which I managed to convince him to lead. He did pretty good, taking a couple of rests to figure out the crux. I was hoping to second it cleanly and I managed to get through the crux without falling but I fell off twice after the second bolt - once due to poor climbing and once due to a foothold disintegrating. Anyway, I am going to lead that climb some time soon.
Next up we went over to Yeddonba Wall (10). Ciaomhin really enjoyed that. I agree with his comment that "The crack is so nice, it's just a pity it's not steeper". I fumbled my nut tool and thought it was lost but it just slid down the crack for a metre or so and then stopped. Lucky!
After a quick lunch we walked to the Bakery Wall and I pointed out the various climbs. We decided to do the two climb on the left end, Little Fatty and Big Fatty, both grade 17. They are both pumpier than they look because they appear to have lots of positive holds from the ground and are both very slightly overhung which makes you work a bit. We each led both, but I had the benefit of the gear still on.
We then went to Life In The Fat Lane (18). I could still only get to just above the second bolt, but Ciaomhin offered me some tips after he managed to get up it. Perhaps I'll have better luck next time.
Since the whole day was overcast it started to get pretty cold by that time (about 4.00) so we packed up and headed back to Albury for the warmth of Paddy's and a pint (actually a half-pint but it doesn't quite have the same ring to it).
During the day a friend of mine from way back (we met at the National Maths Summer School in 1997 and both went back in 1998, then we both went to Sydney Uni and did similar degrees) rang me to say we was in Tallangatta (of all places!) for a wedding. So I am going to meet him for a late lunch today. He is also getting married soon, in Hobart on January 7th. So I'm going to be flat out this summer - get married, go to NZ for honeymoon, come back for Xmas and New Year, then go to Tasmania! We're also going to be flat broke by the end of that I think!
Anyway it's good to have things to look forward to. I don't think I'll get any time off work between now and then since we're a little thin on the ground at the moment so it will be good to have a holiday.
Well, happy climbing everyone!
Next up we went over to Yeddonba Wall (10). Ciaomhin really enjoyed that. I agree with his comment that "The crack is so nice, it's just a pity it's not steeper". I fumbled my nut tool and thought it was lost but it just slid down the crack for a metre or so and then stopped. Lucky!
After a quick lunch we walked to the Bakery Wall and I pointed out the various climbs. We decided to do the two climb on the left end, Little Fatty and Big Fatty, both grade 17. They are both pumpier than they look because they appear to have lots of positive holds from the ground and are both very slightly overhung which makes you work a bit. We each led both, but I had the benefit of the gear still on.
We then went to Life In The Fat Lane (18). I could still only get to just above the second bolt, but Ciaomhin offered me some tips after he managed to get up it. Perhaps I'll have better luck next time.
Since the whole day was overcast it started to get pretty cold by that time (about 4.00) so we packed up and headed back to Albury for the warmth of Paddy's and a pint (actually a half-pint but it doesn't quite have the same ring to it).
During the day a friend of mine from way back (we met at the National Maths Summer School in 1997 and both went back in 1998, then we both went to Sydney Uni and did similar degrees) rang me to say we was in Tallangatta (of all places!) for a wedding. So I am going to meet him for a late lunch today. He is also getting married soon, in Hobart on January 7th. So I'm going to be flat out this summer - get married, go to NZ for honeymoon, come back for Xmas and New Year, then go to Tasmania! We're also going to be flat broke by the end of that I think!
Anyway it's good to have things to look forward to. I don't think I'll get any time off work between now and then since we're a little thin on the ground at the moment so it will be good to have a holiday.
Well, happy climbing everyone!
# posted by Stephen Gordon @ 12:30 PM 
