Monday, September 11, 2006
The Rock, Sun 10th Sept
Paul picked me up just after 9 - Gemma, Ryan and Ben were already in the van. After a boring drive we hiked up the approach (which always leaves my legs burning) and were feeling a little warm by the time we got there. It was a great day, clear skies and sunshine. I guess the only thing which could have made it better was a slight breeze.
Ben headed up Honourable Harry (12) but the intimidating first section got the better of him. I led up through the troublesome section and then lowered off my gear. Ben was fine after that, and I followed him up to the ledge and then led the second pitch, a short chimney. You can quite easily do the climb in one pitch but it was nice up in the shade.
By this time Paul had already led Scatched Knees (15) and was halfway up Temptation (20) which looked very hard from my vantage point on abseil.
I thought long and hard about trying to lead Scratched Knees (15), and eventually decided to try. I had previously tried a couple of times, but ended up taking the easier variant to the right of the roof. I think the hardest move on this climb is about 18 or 19, and Paul seems to agree but I don't think anyone's going to change the grade. You put a bomber #3 Camalot in the fist-sized crack that runs from the back to the front of the roof, and then reach over to a massive jug. I think what I did right this time is that I didn't panic on the jug, instead I chilled out there for a while, alternating hands and placing a #1 nut in the small crack next to the jug. This meant the crux move, a long reach to a crimper which requires the use of crappy footholds, was well protected and I wasn't worried about falling. I did the move and was very happy about it. I did run into a bit of trouble due to the rope getting stuck - I had to ditch one of the ropes and belaying was pretty tough. I also need to take more quickdraws on trad routes as I was forced to run the last section out a bit. All in all, I was very happy with it and the climb is great fun and quite challenging.
We had some lunch and then Ben did Mrs Fairy (12) which is a nice ramble up a corner to the ledge and chimney which is shared with Honourable Harry. It was nice to see him lead something and protect it well - great for his confidence which is probably is his weakness right now (he's certainly not lacking in the strength department!).
Paul had led Outside Edge (19) and Ryan had a good go at doing that but the roof was a bit tough. Everyone was impressed at his persistence and surprised he didn't let go sooner! After he lowered off I went up to have a crack. The first section is fairly straightforward stemming up a corner, until you reach a big roof where you traverse right (kinda reminded me of the traverse pitch on The Bard). Then you make a fairly long reach over the roof to two jugs. The crux is to move from hands on the jugs to feet on the jugs, and it took me three goes. I would like to think that the third time I did it due to actually thinking about the move rather than listening to Paul, but that might be going too far! Anyway the rest of the climb is absolutely awesome - really exposed climbing on beautiful rock. I want to lead it one day and I might even try soon! But I think it will be too hot at The Rock soon and I'll have to wait until next year. Hopefully I'll be stronger then anyway.
Lastly Paul ran a couple of laps on The Staircase (21) which is pretty damn hard (he made it look easy of course). I didn't really feel like trying it (last time I felt it was like banging my head against a wall). Ben had a few shots and then Holly (who was also there doing some instructing with another group) fell her way up it. Last time I saw her climb she was doing really well, making it all look very easy but she hasn't climbed for a while so she struggled a bit. Anyway, by the time she got up it was dark and we walked down and drove home (I think everyone slept all the way home except Paul who was driving).
I really need more fitness - it shows on the walk-ins and I think it would help in my climbing as well. But fitness requires lots of motivation over a long time - something I usually haven't been good at. Maybe next year :)
Ben headed up Honourable Harry (12) but the intimidating first section got the better of him. I led up through the troublesome section and then lowered off my gear. Ben was fine after that, and I followed him up to the ledge and then led the second pitch, a short chimney. You can quite easily do the climb in one pitch but it was nice up in the shade.
By this time Paul had already led Scatched Knees (15) and was halfway up Temptation (20) which looked very hard from my vantage point on abseil.
I thought long and hard about trying to lead Scratched Knees (15), and eventually decided to try. I had previously tried a couple of times, but ended up taking the easier variant to the right of the roof. I think the hardest move on this climb is about 18 or 19, and Paul seems to agree but I don't think anyone's going to change the grade. You put a bomber #3 Camalot in the fist-sized crack that runs from the back to the front of the roof, and then reach over to a massive jug. I think what I did right this time is that I didn't panic on the jug, instead I chilled out there for a while, alternating hands and placing a #1 nut in the small crack next to the jug. This meant the crux move, a long reach to a crimper which requires the use of crappy footholds, was well protected and I wasn't worried about falling. I did the move and was very happy about it. I did run into a bit of trouble due to the rope getting stuck - I had to ditch one of the ropes and belaying was pretty tough. I also need to take more quickdraws on trad routes as I was forced to run the last section out a bit. All in all, I was very happy with it and the climb is great fun and quite challenging.
We had some lunch and then Ben did Mrs Fairy (12) which is a nice ramble up a corner to the ledge and chimney which is shared with Honourable Harry. It was nice to see him lead something and protect it well - great for his confidence which is probably is his weakness right now (he's certainly not lacking in the strength department!).
Paul had led Outside Edge (19) and Ryan had a good go at doing that but the roof was a bit tough. Everyone was impressed at his persistence and surprised he didn't let go sooner! After he lowered off I went up to have a crack. The first section is fairly straightforward stemming up a corner, until you reach a big roof where you traverse right (kinda reminded me of the traverse pitch on The Bard). Then you make a fairly long reach over the roof to two jugs. The crux is to move from hands on the jugs to feet on the jugs, and it took me three goes. I would like to think that the third time I did it due to actually thinking about the move rather than listening to Paul, but that might be going too far! Anyway the rest of the climb is absolutely awesome - really exposed climbing on beautiful rock. I want to lead it one day and I might even try soon! But I think it will be too hot at The Rock soon and I'll have to wait until next year. Hopefully I'll be stronger then anyway.
Lastly Paul ran a couple of laps on The Staircase (21) which is pretty damn hard (he made it look easy of course). I didn't really feel like trying it (last time I felt it was like banging my head against a wall). Ben had a few shots and then Holly (who was also there doing some instructing with another group) fell her way up it. Last time I saw her climb she was doing really well, making it all look very easy but she hasn't climbed for a while so she struggled a bit. Anyway, by the time she got up it was dark and we walked down and drove home (I think everyone slept all the way home except Paul who was driving).
I really need more fitness - it shows on the walk-ins and I think it would help in my climbing as well. But fitness requires lots of motivation over a long time - something I usually haven't been good at. Maybe next year :)
# posted by Stephen Gordon @ 9:07 PM 
