Wednesday, October 18, 2006
Buffalo Sunday 18 October
Ben and I left Wodonga at about 8.45 and met Caoimhin in the car park a bit after 10. We headed down to Beowulf straight away and set up a top rope. I managed to flail my way up it , I think I probably should have warmed up first. Ben led What Ethics? (15), which follows a short crack to a break and then finishes up a slab. Caoimhin and I both did it too. I remember really struggling with the crack section a couple of years ago but it was easy this time. Hopefully that means I am getting better at cracks!
Caoiminh then hopped on Beowulf and managed to do it with only a couple of rests (apparently he likes laybacking). Ben found it very awkward but they both agreed it's a great climb, and something to aspire to leading one day.
After some lunch in the car park we went up to the Mothballs (just below the Horn). Ben led The Biggest Thing Here (16) after struggling with the start (everyone does). Caoiminh and I both followed.
I decided to lead Waiting For A Princess (20) which I had toproped last year. I felt really good on the bottom section and cruised up to the rest which is just before the climb steepens. The crux is getting past the steep section (it's pretty much vertical for almost a bodylength) . I managed to get through this OK, but frustratingly I fell off on the slabby bit after that (which is still pretty hard). Anyway hopefully I'll get it next time, it was really good to do that well.
Ben also gave it a go but couldn't get through the crux, and Caoiminh wasn't feeling up to it so we headed up the road to Dreamworld.
It was probably not the best idea to try another climb (it was pretty late in the day) but I hopped on This Is Not Our Land (19). I got to the 3rd bolt but was very very pumped and had to lower off. Ben got to the same place and was looking a bit better but was also tired from the earlier climbs so we left half a quickdraw there. Hopefully we can get it back next time!
All in all a great day, personally I think I'm improving (feeling much better on the slabs and stronger on everything else) and Ben was happy to go to some new areas which he hadn't visited before. Caoiminh hadn't been up there at all before so it was all new for him, but I think he liked it.
Caoiminh then hopped on Beowulf and managed to do it with only a couple of rests (apparently he likes laybacking). Ben found it very awkward but they both agreed it's a great climb, and something to aspire to leading one day.
After some lunch in the car park we went up to the Mothballs (just below the Horn). Ben led The Biggest Thing Here (16) after struggling with the start (everyone does). Caoiminh and I both followed.
I decided to lead Waiting For A Princess (20) which I had toproped last year. I felt really good on the bottom section and cruised up to the rest which is just before the climb steepens. The crux is getting past the steep section (it's pretty much vertical for almost a bodylength) . I managed to get through this OK, but frustratingly I fell off on the slabby bit after that (which is still pretty hard). Anyway hopefully I'll get it next time, it was really good to do that well.
Ben also gave it a go but couldn't get through the crux, and Caoiminh wasn't feeling up to it so we headed up the road to Dreamworld.
It was probably not the best idea to try another climb (it was pretty late in the day) but I hopped on This Is Not Our Land (19). I got to the 3rd bolt but was very very pumped and had to lower off. Ben got to the same place and was looking a bit better but was also tired from the earlier climbs so we left half a quickdraw there. Hopefully we can get it back next time!
All in all a great day, personally I think I'm improving (feeling much better on the slabs and stronger on everything else) and Ben was happy to go to some new areas which he hadn't visited before. Caoiminh hadn't been up there at all before so it was all new for him, but I think he liked it.
# posted by Stephen Gordon @ 4:42 PM 
