don't believe the hype

Well I got back from Arapiles Saturday afternoon. Had a great time there. I'll start my story from the beginning. I may have gotten Monday and Tuesday mixed up but otherwise I think this is fairly accurate.

Day 0 (Fri 3rd Nov)
I had a conference with work in the afternoon, so at lunch time I ducked home and packed everything in the car. Luckily I finished early but Ben was flat out so he finished late... and then I bought the wrong phonecard at the fuel station and there was a traffic jam going from Albury to Wodonga... so by the time I got to Ben's place it was almost 5 and I was pretty pissed off. Anyway we made decent time, grabbed a burger in Violet Town and got to the pines at about 11.50pm. Set up camp quickly (hopefully we weren't too noisy) and got to bed.

Day 1 (Fri 3rd Nov)
The next morning was a little overcast but we were both very very psyched to go do some climbing. It was much less busy than I expected for the Saturday before Melbourne Cup weekend, but we didn't hang around - went straight up to the Organ Pipes and since no-one was on D Minor we jumped on that. I led the first pitch and Ben led the 2nd (I know you can do it in a single pitch but Ben hadn't done it before and I hate rope drag). By the time we topped out it had cleared up nicely and 2 more parties had arrived at the bottom - perhaps they were waiting to see if the weather was going to be OK? Then we headed uphill slightly to Pedro. Ben led it, and despite getting off-route and having to reverse a few dicey moves, found it very nice. I thoroughly enjoyed it, it has some of the best jams I've ever gotten!
After a quick lunch we decided something bigger was in order and we settled on Eskimo Nell. I'd done it before 3 or 4 times so Ben led the 1st pitch (stopped below the chimney to avoid rope drag). I led the short chimney pitch and then Ben led the rest except the final pitch, where I managed to get into a nasty wide crack at the very top which I hadn't done before. I advise avoiding this variant if possible ;) As always it was great fun but I might do Dunes next time for some variety. By the way, I strongly recommend racking up at camp, and taking a small pack to carry your sandals so you don't need to slug your way back up to the base of the climb to retrieve your stuff. Or just take double ropes and rap down.
Saturday evening was very pleasant, with no hint of the wind that was to plague us for the next few days.

Day 2 (Sun 5 Nov):
We got up and headed across toward Tiger Wall, stopping to check if anyone was on the Bard. I haven't done it before (once we bailed after the traverse pitch because we didn't like having to share each belay) and Ben was well aware of its mythical status, so when there was no-one on it at all we quickly took advantage of the situation. Unfortunately just as I was racking up a very strong wind blew up from the south-east and we could not even hear each other from a few metres away. For those familiar with the nature of the 1st pitch, well it was a little scary with gale-force winds trying to knock me off the polished footholds! Ben followed with the backpack and was in favour of retreating, however his senses returned shortly and he led off on the second pitch. This he handled very well - I think far more scared while seconding (which I like to blame on being taller).
I should mention that a couple arrived while I was leading the 1st pitch and were following us, however they did not follow closely and we felt no pressure which made things a lot more fun. Thanks to whoever you were!
The 3rd pitch was absolutely fantastic, and must be responsible for 2 of the 3 stars. Lots of exposure without having to do very difficult moves, it's well protected but still you feel very "out there" and the climbing is very interesting. One of the best pitches I've done full stop. Ben led the 4th pitch - I think it was also exposed but a little more juggy. The 5th pitch gave me massive rope-drag problems - if I lead that one again I'll certain consider back-cleaning especially when you reach the "halfway ledge".
We came back down into camp, had a very late lunch and then headed to town to stock up on food and ice. The wind was still blowing that night and it got cold quickly so we retired pretty early, hoping it would be gone the next morning.

Day 3 (Mon 6 Nov):
On the Sunday, Dan (who I'd bouldered with once in Albury) came over and said hi. On Monday, Dan and his climbing partner Anna, and Ben and I all shuffled up to Pilot Error - Anna and Dan had done it a couple of days earlier but were keen to get some better photos. We were happy to come and try the climb - despite several Araps trips I'd never been up there before.
Dan made pretty quick work of the lead, even managing a brief one-handed hang :) Anna was fresh and had all the beta so she almost managed to "pinkpoint" it. Ben, who I expected to flash it due to his strength really struggled with the reachy crux move. By the time he'd sorted out which hold to go for, he was totally pumped and could not hold the jugs. He swore to come back and finish the deed. I actually surprised myself by managing to do it with one rest. I had expected to struggle a lot on a 21 and I think if I had started in a more positive frame of mind I might have flashed it. The crux move was reasonably difficult but as soon as I actually managed to reach the next hold it was all over. A nice climb which I will have to lead one day. Dan finished up with another lap purely for the photos :)
Dan and Anna headed off for the Grampians so after lunch we thought about which areas might be sheltered from the south-easterly wind, which was still blowing just as hard. Central Gully Left seemed like a good plan so we went up to try The Stoat Steps Out - a grade 18 which was harder than anything we had tried to lead on trad before. It turned out to be very calm and pleasant. The climb is very short (about 10m) but of course you get pumped placing gear. I led up to about the halfway point but could not figure out the next move. It seemed to be a reach to a fingerlock, however Ben discovered a hold hiding in a crack which enabled him to get a little hire before pumping out. I pulled the rope and with the beta managed to cleanly climb the route, albeit with preplaced gear. Hopefully next time I go, I'll be able to climb it properly.
This all took us quite a while and by the time Ben seconded the climb and we worked out how to get off the pinnacle it was getting late (we didn't check the guidebook beforehand so we wandered around a bit before I abseiled and confirmed that the scary-looking chimney was in fact the waydown).
The wind was still blowing so we hauled our cooking stuff (and our 2L cask of port) to the shelter and made spaghetti bolognese which tasted sensational (spicy salami and cheese chunks are the key).

Day 4 (Tue 7 Nov):
Since Central Gully Left was sheltered the previous day we figured the Organ Pipes would be too, so we quickly ate breakfast and jumped on Hornpiece. Ben led off but retreated - we had both left camp in such a hurry that we forgot take a "biobreak"! Ben's was only a #1 but I needed to walk down to the pines so after a quick stroll I racked up and finished the climb. Really fun stuff, I can't recommend this climb enough.
After this we took a look at the guidebook and went for Bastress, a grade 11 on the Grotto Wall which is in front of Tiger Wall, just opposite Castle Crag. It has one star and we hoped it might be sheltered from the wind, which it was. Ben led again - this time he fared better although he did split the pitch into 2. The climb is really nice with those beautiful jugs that you only find at Arapiles. We couldn't locate the chains on a chockstone which is mentioned in the Shepherd guide but after 10 minutes wandering around on top eventually found some chains which put us in a gully between the Grotto Wall and Tiger Wall proper. (Does anyone know if the chains we were looking for still exist?)
On the way back for lunch I sandbagged Ben into doing the squeezethrough - by doing it myself (gets easier after the 1st time). Much swearing ensued as he became stuck, and then unstuck like so many before him.
Ben seemed to be experiencing "head troubles" (my diagnosis) since he had backed off the last pitch of the Bard and off Hornpiece, failed on Pilot Error and split Bastress into 2 pitches and seemed to be doubting himself. I figured a few easy leads were in order and settled in for an afternoon of belaying around Declaration Crag. He quickly dispatched Sickle (OK), Marshmallow Sea (good fun and recommended), and Sir George (worthless). I think this milage helped reinforce his self-belief which was needed later in the week on longer climbs.

Day 5 (Wed 8 Nov):
We were out of food and ice and very dirty, so we decided to head to Horsham, stopping at the Natimuk Lake Caravan Park for a shower. Martin from NZ caught a lift as far as Natimuk and ended up climbing with us on Thursday. The shower felt great and it was nice to sit in a cafe for a half hour or so in Horsham (which was windy as well).
After returning from our shopping trip and having lunch Ben was psyched to get to Pilot Error and lead it. Unfortunately, it was not to be, however he did get the sequence well and truly sorted for next time. After this we tried to climb the roof crack immediately next to it which is a hell of a lot harder but somehow only 20 (it's called Cul-de-sac and is not in the Mentz/Tempest guide). It was good fun with great big jugs and bomber gear but we just couldn't make the transition from the crack to the chimney.
By this stage the wind was getting on our nerves... we went to the shelter to cook and shared stories and conversation with Martin who turned out to be a pastry chef by trade but got sick of that and now works on Fox Glacier in NZ. One of the things I really love about climbing is the great variety of people you meet, all with their own experiences. I think a lot of people go through life, always socialising with people that are similar to them... and I think it's a pity as it's very easy to stereotype/criticise/scapegoat people you have never met. Anyway, it turned out that this was our last night of the wind - when we got up on Thursday it had died down.

Day 6 (Thurs 9 Nov):
Martin was by himself so we invited him to come along with us for the day. Ben wanted to dispatch Hornpiece which he did in style, followed by me and then Martin.
After that we walked up to Moby Dick pinnacle and attempted that. Ben and I had a go and reached the crux which is rather committing. Martin pulled through it in fine style and topped out. I thought it was fairly strenuous even when seconding so I was very impressed!
After lunch, we went to do Dracula (a little bit in the shade) but I hopped on Rosy Shy (a grade 19) by mistake. I made pretty decent headway but backed off when it got really hard, will have to come back to it at some stage. Ben then led both pitches of Dracula and by then it was getting too late.
On the way back down we climbed up and the back down the back of Golden Streak boulder. A young guy was scoping the top for holds - apparently he'd got up there and couldn't work out what to do. We quickly got caught up and I blew myself away by doing it first go! First time on this trip anyway. I have never been able to do it before and this time the first moves seemed easy (perhaps my technique has improved) and the moves at the top seemed committing but not too hard. I was really proud of that as I have always wanted to do it and thought it was out of my reach.
A great finish to a really fun day - with no wind!

Day 7 (Fri 10 Nov):
Getting towards the end of the trip and we hadn't done anything on the Watchtower Faces. So we took the car over (note to self - drive in from the north side, not from the pines) and walked up to the bottom of the Watchtower Crack to climb Salamander. I have done this climb starting via Gecko before (further right). The first pitch was somewhat scary but I managed to find fairly good pro (with the exception of one piece) and even placed a sideways nut which was actually fairly good.
Ben led the second pitch but unfortunately I had to abandon a small gold Kong cam which was totally overcammed and would not budge despite trying for a long time with and without a nut tool. (Did anyone find it?). We decided to combine the 3rd and 4th pitches (as described in Shepherd Guide) and this worked really well, in fact I think this is what they did in the Mentz/Tempest guide. I think the tree on the ledge may eventually need help surviving as there is a lot of erosion happening where people thrutch up to the ledge. The fourth pitch was not much to write home about, I was glad to get off the climb as it was pretty hot up there by that stage!
After all this, we were both exhausted so in the afternoon we went to Declaration Crag and threw a toprope on Little Thor. I have not been able to get up this one before but this time I did - I still think it's tough for a 20. Ben really struggled because of the reachy moves - does anyone have beta for short people on this climb?
A little bit of bouldering at the end and then we went to the National in Natimuk for a couple of beers and a few games of pool. The locals are always really friendly so make sure you stop by!

Saturday morning we left and arrived home at about 4.30. We had planned to stay until Saturday afternoon but I think we were both exhausted and would have needed a rest day if we were staying longer.

I broke some of my personal barriers during the trip which was really rewarding and Ben got a heap of experience with placing gear and leading. We also both had great fun (despite the stupid wind) and we're definitely planning another trip as soon as possible - we have to spend a week in Nowra first though ;)